1. Let out the air.


2. Insert a tire lever and pull out the bead.


3. Try to slide lever around the tire; if not insert another lever and get one side of the tire off the rim.


4. Now that the tire is off the rim, reach inside and pull out the tube. Continue to remove the tire.


5. Check the rim for spokes that might be exposed.


6. Remove any dirt or other foreign matter inside the tire.


7. If your changing the tube due to a slow leak, check that tire thoroughly

1. Free brake cables from tension by loosening the anchor bolts.
2. Check all cables (inner & casing) for splits, corrosion, burs & foreign matter. If cables have any of these problems, replace or clean thoroughly.
3. Check brake pads for excessive wear and/or foreign matter. If pads have any of these problems, replace or clean thoroughly.
4. Align all brake pads parallel to rim. Be sure the pads are in the center of the rim. (Too high - results in tire wear) (Too low - results in spoke damage)
5. Re-install brake cable through anchor bolt, then add tension until pads touch rim.
6. Pull brake lever firmly to stretch and seat cables properly.
7. Brake pads must be toed in (following wheel direction). The front of the brake pad must be closer to rim than the rear of the pad. 2-3 mm. difference.
8. Center caliper over wheel to prevent pads from rubbing on rim when not applied. To center caliper, loosen the rear caliper nut (located behind fork) then hold caliper until both pads are not in contact with rim. If this does not center the caliper, a punch & hammer may have to be used.
9. The side which has the most distance between the pad & rim must be softly tapped using the punch and hammer. Tap the caliper spring closest to the center bolt until the caliper moves into the desired location.
10. Finally fine tune cable tension by turning brake barrel adjuster located on brake levers. ( More tension - counter clockwise ) ( Less tension - clockwise )
11. Lubricate all cable casing and moving parts with a Teflon-based lubricant.

1. Free brake cables from tension by loosening anchor bolts. Cable may be disconnected from V-Brake as well.
2. Check all cables (inner & casing) for splits, corrosion, burs, & foreign matter. If cables have any of these problems, replace or clean thoroughly.
3. Check brake pads for excessive wear and/or foreign matter. If pads have any of these problems, replace or clean thoroughly.
4. Align brake pads parallel to rim. Be sure the pads are in the center of rim. (too high - results in tire wear) (too low - results in spoke damage)
5. Position the stem of the brake pad as far the-Brake as possible to prevent flex or vibration. Use the same distance on both sides of brake to keep it centered.
6. Brake pads must be toed in (following wheel direction). The front of the brake pad must be closer to rim than the rear of pad - 2-3 mm. difference.
7. Re-install brake cable through anchor bolt, then add tension until pads touch rim. Be sure the yoke cable has the same length of cable to each side of V-Brake (this ensures balance and easy spring tension adjustment).
8. Pull brake lever firmly to stretch and seat cables properly.
9. To center V-Brakes, adjust the cable guide to the center of the yoke cable. If this does not center the brake, most new brake systems have a spring tension adjustment screw located on one of the brake arms. Turning the screw clockwise adds spring tension, turning the screw counter clockwise will give less tension.
10. If the brake system does not have this feature, the V- brakes must be removed from the fork or stays. Unscrew the V-Brake bolt and remove both sides of the brake. When removed the spring is exposed and can be adjusted by simply changing one of the 3 holes in which the spring was last inserted (top-hole max. spring) (middle hole med. spring) (bottom hole least spring).
11. When the right combination has been found, and the brake has been centered you can then re-assemble the brakes. This last resort to adjustment should only have to done once.
12. Finally fine tune cable tension by turning brake barrel adjuster located on brake levers (more tension - counter clockwise) (less tension clockwise).
13. Lubricate all cable casing and moving parts with a Teflon-based lubricant.

1. Teflon cables (water resistant, smooth running, durable).
2. Soft compound brake pads (light weight, quiet, more stopping power).
3. High end brake levers (light weight, more leverage, adjustable, 2 finger power).
4. Brake booster (less flex, less vibration, stiffens cantilevers, look great).

FRONT

1. Shift bicycle into low gear on front chain rings (smallest chaining) and into low gear on freewheel (largest chaining)
2. Disconnect the changer cable from the anchor bolt to release all tension from the derailleur.
3. Using the inside limit adjuster screw, adjust the derailleur until the chain does not touch the inside of derailleur guide while in the gear ratio selected in #1)
4. Re-connect the changer cable to the anchor bolt on the derailleur. Make sure the tension on the changer cable is not too tight to move the dealers’ position.
5. Shift bicycle into high gear on front chain rings (largest chain rings) and into high gear (smallest chaining) on freewheel.
6. Using the outside limit adjustment screw, adjust the derailleur until the chain does not touch the outside of derailleur guide while in gear ratio selected in #5)
7. Pedal bicycle at normal riding speed and shift through all gears. Adjust derailleur cable tension according to how the derailleur reacts when shifting.
8. (Shifting the derailleur) If the chain does not move into the next low gear selected after shifting, this can be corrected by adding tension to the cable. If the chain moves too much or skips after selecting high gear, this can be corrected by lessening the tension on the derailleur cable. Finding the right combination of tension takes time.
9. Finally, lubricate all moving parts of derailleur and all cable ends with a Teflon-based lubricant.

1. A higher quality derailleur (smoother shifting, less steel - lighter, stronger).
2. Higher quality shifters. (smoother shifting, more gears, more responsive, lighter)
3. Teflon cables (water resistant, smoother shifting, durable).

REAR

1. A higher quality derailleur (smoother shifting, less steel - lighter, stronger).
2. Higher quality shifters (smoother shifting, more gears, more responsive, lighter).
3. Teflon cables (water resistant, smoother shifting, durable).

REMOVING

1. Before attempting to remove the chain, first shift the bicycle into low gear on front chain rings and into high gear on the freewheel. This ensures the chain free of all tension, which makes for easy removal.
2. With derailleur side of bicycle facing you, choose the most centered link between the rear derailleur and the front chain rings to become the breaking point. Using a proper chain tool begin to force one pin from the link 75% of the way through the link. Be sure not to push the pin all the way through for re-assembly is impossible.
3. Now the chain can be disassemble by grasping one hand on either side of split link and forcing inwards with thumbs. This guarantees the chain to come apart without any hassle or damage.
4. Remove chain from bicycle and begin to inspect for any excessive corrosion or damage. Ex: rust, stretched links, broken pins, twisted links.
5. If the chain has any of these signs, now is the time to replace it with a new chain. If the chain has only minor wear and surface corrosion, than it may be re-used.

INSTALLATION

1. If you have determined the chain needs replacing, be sure the new chain has the same amount of links as the original. This is easy to measure by laying both the old chain and new chain on a flat surface side by side.
2. If you determine the old chain is re-usable, clean the chain using preferably a biodegradable de-greaser, and a hard bristle brush.
3. Install the chain the opposite way of removal. The link pin should now be facing outwards so the chain tool can be used without difficulty.
4. Fit the split link back together by hand. The 25% of the pin inside the link should hold the chain together. Using the chain tool, force the other 75% of the link pin back inside the link.
5. Inspect the re-assembled link. There should be the exact same amount of external pin on either side of chain. Using your hands, hold the chain on either side of break point and flex the chain horizontally back and forth. Usually the link will be stiff after re-assembly, and this will loosen the break point slightly (do this for any stiff links).
6. Finally, lubricate the whole chain with a Teflon-based lubricant. Backpedal the bicycle slowly while spraying the inside links (chain should not drip). If you are using a petroleum-based lubricant, only use one drop on each inner link.

1. Remove one side of cones by turning the outside nut counter clockwise, while holding the nut beside it with the appropriate size of cone wrench (be sure to keep one side untouched).
2. Remove the locknut and cone by hand.
3. Now remove the axle by sliding it out slowly (be sure to place a container underneath to catch loose bearings).
4. Place the wheel on its side over the container and remove the remaining bearings.
5. Note: Sometimes it is easier to remove dust caps. Be careful not to dent them.
6. Clean bearings, cones, locknuts, axle, and hub thoroughly.
7. Dry all parts before re-assembly. Check for damaged parts.
8. Grease hub with your finger. Re-insert bearings.
9. Apply an extra film of grease on top of bearings. This will keep your bearings from falling out when you’re re-assembling.
10. Now slide the axle into the hub.
11. Thread down the cone hand tight till you cannot go any more. Repeat with locknut.
12. Tighten nut against cone by counter threading them together.
13. This is the delicate part.
14. If cones are to tight, loosen off inside cones slightly.
15. If cones are to loose, slightly tighten locknuts.
16. *Use this method for final adjustment.
17. Adjust your axle so it turns smoothly without moving side to side.

1. Remove pedals (Left side is a reverse thread).
2. Remove nuts , then remove pedal arms using a pedal arm extractor
3. Take off lock ring on right hand side, then remove cup.
4. Now you can remove the axle and check bearings and check for scoring.
5. If they are scored, replace them.
6. After inspecting and cleaning everything , replace bearings (balls to the outside)
7. Grease thoroughly and re-assemble.
8. Set bearings so they run smoothly and there is no play.
9. Use lockring to secure everything

1. Go through steps 1 and 2
2. Using a cartridge bottom bracket tool, remove the right side first then the left side.
3. Service is not required on a cartridge type b/b. Replace it if it’s running rough.
4. It’s also a good idea to grease the threads in all cases.

1. Remove tire, tube, and rim tape.
2. Visually and physically check spokes.
3. Look for high and low spots.
4. Check side to side of rim.
5. Using appropriate spoke wrench, tighten or loosen nipples a little at a time to bring rim back to its trueness.
6. Best results are accomplished when you can use 5 or 6 spokes to bring in an outward bend. Try not to use just one spoke to bring in the rim to it’s composure
7. If a spoke needs to be replaced check to see if there is a weave and to replace the new spoke with a mirror image of last spoke.
8. If the rim has a significant dent, replace rim.
9. If the rim can’t be pulled straight by manually pulling on spokes from the opposite direction, then the rim is to far bent. It must be replaced.

1. Check your tire pressure weekly.
2. Keep your chain lubricated.
3. Overhauls should be performed at least once every 5 years depending on usage.
4. Check tires for wear regularly and look for cracks due to weather conditions.
5. Once cables are getting sticky, lubricate the ends or replace them.
6. Check all nuts and bolts on your bicycle regularly.
7. Shocks should be overhauled every 60 hours (bring it to a reputable shop).
8. If you ride in wet conditions, use wet condition lubes.
9. Keep your rims, gears and brakes clean for a safer ride.